I originally made this video using the T4i but all the tips and tricks apply to the T5i too.
Time lapse photography involves taking a series of still images and then combining them to make a movie.
Camera with a Remote Shutter Release Port
Remote Shutter Release/Intervalometer – I bought mine off Amazon for $14 bucks
UPDATE: Since making this video I have gotten my hands on Triggertrap App -Intervalometer and so much more
A tripod or other stable surface to set the camera
The Intervalometer part of the shutter release is what lets you specify that ever n seconds you want the camera to take a photo. The one I linked above is very simple to use. You have the following settings – Delay (how long before the first shot), Long (the length of time you want the shutter to stay open), Interval (the period of time between each photo) and Number (the number of photos you want the camera to take before it stops). For most daytime time lapses you can ignore the Long setting, leaving it at zero. This setting is really only used for LONG exposures at night, longer than 30 seconds when you need to use Bulb mode.
In both my example videos I have the Delay set at 5 seconds and then Interval set at 3 seconds. Number is set on infinity – the camera will keep taking photos until it runs out of battery or card space or I stop it. It is important to have a larger card if you plan a longer time lapse. You also want to make sure your battery is charged. On the camera the following settings are helpful for getting the best results.
- Compose your photo and focus, once you have focus switch the lens to MF, you don’t want it trying to focus for each shot.
- Use the Manual Mode – Don’t be scared – Just Rotate that Dial to M and turn live view on. Adjust your Aperture by holding down the AV/+- button on the back and rotating the Main Dial. An aperture of F5.6 – f/9.0 will be best to make sure everything is in focus. Set your ISO under 800 and then adjust shutter speed till the image on the screen roughly matches what you see with your eye.
- Set the Image Quality to Medium – this is one of the few times I don’t recommend you shoot RAW, Medium JPEG even Small JPEGs are still much larger than HD video. You can shoot RAW for shorter time lapses but that can easily be hundreds of large files you have to deal with.
- Turn Off Beep- First Menu, second option. This just saves you from hearing it beep for EVERY photo it takes.
- Turn Off Image Review- First Menu, Fourth Option – This saves battery life
- If you have an interval(time between shots) longer than 30 seconds you want to double check the Auto-Off setting on the camera and make sure it is set longer.
- Take one more test shot, press play to double check exposure is good. If all good start the Intervalometer and leave the camera alone.
- Set WB to match conditions E.g. if it is Sunny set it to Sunny – this avoids any potential changes in WB over the course of the shots but in my experience the change is often smooth enough that this doesn’t cause any issues.
- Shoot Large and you can pan across the time lapse by doing some nifty post processing in your video editor.
First simple example – I shot everything on Auto you can see a flickering in the shots as the camera adjusted the aperture, this is not desired.
Second Example seen at the end of the how to video above ( no flicker from Aperture changes, just sunlight changes and that is OK 🙂
Complete Second Example – Not quite as exciting as I hoped, needs more sky and clouds.
Next Steps – In a future post I will talk about the software you need to combine these files into a movie, sources of music and editing tips.
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