Tour du Mont Blanc Day 3: Apple Custard and Cow Roadblocks

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Tour du Mont Blanc Day 3: Apple Custard and Cow Roadblocks

On Monday, July 14th, we tackled our third day on the Tour du Mont Blanc. This was a pure hiking day—no buses, no gondolas, just our own two feet carrying us from the tiny Swiss hamlet of Trient. [3 minute recap]

A Misty Morning Climb

We woke to the promise of a challenging day. The original plan was to tackle the high route over the Fenêtre d'Arpette, but the morning rain made that a risky choice. We opted for the official TMB low route instead. As we set off into the lovely, damp forest, patches of blue sky began to appear, giving us hope. The air was cool and the mist rising through the trees created a truly magical, moody atmosphere. We did get some rain - just enough to turn the trail muddy and force raincoats on before it let up and slowly started to clear.

As we climbed higher, we emerged into an alpine pasture filled with the sound of cowbells. We were greeted by a herd of cows, watched over by a shepherd and his dog—a timeless alpine scene. The mist still clung to the peaks around us, making for some absolutely beautiful and dramatic views.

The Best Pie in the Alps?

After a significant climb, we reached our highest point of the day. But we didn't rest there. We had a more important destination in mind: pie! We made a beeline down to the Alpage de Bovine, a small mountain hut. While the famous apricot pies were unfortunately reserved for special groups, we happily settled for a slice of apple custard and peach pie. They were very good, but they weren't cheap! There's just something about a sweet treat in the middle of nowhere that makes it taste infinitely better.

Leaving the Alpage de Bovine proved to be a challenge. The local cows, who seemed docile from a distance, were a bit randy and had decided the trail was their space to decide who was queen of the herd. You might laugh and think I'm exaggerating, but a short while after carefully navigating the herd, we passed another hiker who was stopped and bandaging his leg. He told us he'd been run over by the very same cows! It was a stark reminder: even in these idyllic settings, it's wise to give the wildlife the room and respect they deserve.

From Rocky Trails to a Forest Oasis

The descent that followed was long and, at times, very rocky, which definitely tested our tired legs. We even crossed a lingering snow bridge, a stark reminder of just how high in the Alps we were. Eventually, the rugged path gave way to an absolutely beautiful, cruisy trail through the forest that was cool, fast, and a joy to walk on.

Because our hotel was slightly off the main TMB route, we got to take a quiet side trail that turned out to be one of the highlights of the day. The path followed a bisse—an ancient, narrow water channel—and was one of the most scenic and peaceful trails I have ever walked in my life. It was the perfect end to the hiking portion of our day, leading us right to our hotel, the Relais d'Arpette, which had a truly stunning view. Now, about the dinner... we could be polite and not mention the chili, but where's the fun in that? The beans were still raw and crunchy! It was, unfortunately, one of our least favorite meals on the TMB.

Day 3 by the Numbers

This was our longest day yet, with a lot of climbing and a memorable, rewarding journey.