Steel Wool Photography - Quick How-to

Had an opportunity to try some Steel Wool Photography last night and thought I would share my experience-You will need -

• Steel Wool - Grade 0, 00, 000, or 0000. Don't buy grade 1 or higher.
• Wire Whisk to hold the wool
• Chain or dog leash to clip to the wire whisk for spinning- this should be 3'-4' long
• Lighter or 9 volt battery to light the wool
• Tripod or someway to hold your camera steady for 20-30 seconds.
• Flash light or light source(lighter can work) for focus assist with the camera
• Junky clothes including a hoody or a hat to protect your hair and eye protection
• Space to spin that isn't going to catch on fire.*

*You will potentially be throwing sparks 15-20' possibly more depending on the wind and these are sparks or bits of wool that continue to burn. DO NOT experiment with this anywhere that potentially could catch fire and have someone with you keeping an eye out for for issues.  And when done do a walk through picking up any mess and making sure nothing is still burning or smoldering.Directions -

1. Stuff the steel wool inside the whisk and rearrange the whisk so it is spaced evenly, closing any big gaps created when you stuffed the wool inside.  You can keep the wool packed or unravel and re-pack loosely.  The more tightly packed the slower and more consistent the burn.
2. Attach the chain, dog leash to the end of the whisk and experiment with spinning the contraption.
3. Using a flashlight, compose and get focus on the subject that will be spinning.
4. Set camera on manual mode - suggested starting settings around 20-30 seconds, f8-f/10 and ISO 200-400 - not a bad idea to set the camera on 2-second delay to avoid any extra jiggling or use a remote to trigger the camera.
5. Light the wool(you don't need the wool to be on fire - small embers are enough, once you start spinning it will catch fire) and start spinning.
6. Review images and try again.

Results -

Alternative Ideas - Not interested in spinning burning steel around your head?  Use a glow stick, flashlight, electrowire- You won't get the sparks but can still create some very cool images using the same basic camera settings and setup.  Watch my Electrowire light painting videoFuture Plans - I'd love to try some more - locations with reflections, locations like tunnels where the flying sparks hit walls and define the space, spinning as I spin to create more of an orb look and one more than I am not ready to share yet.   Have you done any steel wool photos? Share them in my Flickr Group or on my Facebook Page.Questions? Comments? Suggestions for future video topics? Leave them below.     

Light Painting - Samples & How-to

Super Simple Light Painting How-to:

Need:

• Camera that lets you control shutter speed
• Tripod (or flat surface to place the camera on)
• a moveable light source - small LED keychain light, cheap electroluminescent wires, laser pointer
• Bonus - Remote trigger release(Canon | Nikon) or use the 2 second timer to avoid shaking the camera when you press the shutter button

Steps:

1. focus camera on the area where you will be painting. If this is in a room just turn on the lights, focus on your subject or where your subject will be then turn off the light. Outside? Have someone stand with a flashlight or shine the flashlight on a spot to get focus.
2. Put camera on manual (M) and set your shutter speed for as long as you think it will take you to complete the painting.  5-10 seconds is a good starting point. Aperture should be as large as possible.  ISO around 400-800.    Take a test photo with painting any light - how much ambient light is captured?   Too much?  Lower your ISO.  Too little? raise your ISO.  Repeat until you have background exposed as desired.
3. Attempt your first painting.  Review and try again.  Experiment! Have fun!

Photographing Waterfalls - Tips and Tricks for Long Exposure Water Photos

 Gear Needed:Camera that allows shutter speed control and a tripod.Recommended Gear:Remote shutter release(to avoid wiggling the camera) and a Circular Polarizer or Neutral Density Filter.  If you don't have the filters you will need to shoot when light levels are low, almost to the point of getting dark - after sunset and before sunrise.In this video I use a Canon T5i with 18-135 STM lens with a Circular Polarizer on a Benro MeFoto Travel Tripod.I mention Back Button Focusing in this video, helpful to keep the camera from refocusing each time you try a shot.Even with the filters the best time is near dawn or sunset, the rest of the day is too bright, even if it is overcast.