10 Tips for Better Beach Photography
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The beach is an ideal setting for photography. With sparkling water and a blue sky, how can you take a bad picture? However, when you snap pictures quickly in auto mode without thinking much about your composition, they often turn out dull or washed out with no clear subject or visual point of interest. A few tips for better beach photography will help you turn your mediocre, amateur beach snaps into professional, polished images.
Straighten the horizon
Arguably, the single biggest mistake people make with beach photos is shooting a crooked horizon. Straightening the horizon instantly improves any beach photo. When you're shooting, pay attention to your horizon to get it as straight as possible in camera. Then make any final adjustments during post-process to ensure it's completely straight.There are a couple of different ways to straighten the horizon in Lightroom. Both straightening tools are located in the Crop options box. The first tool is a visual rotation tool. After you've clicked on the Crop tool and the grid has appeared, hover your mouse outside of the photo until a double arrow appears. Drag the cursor until you've straightened the horizon.The second tool is the ruler or straighten tool in the Crop options box. Click and drag it over to the crooked horizon. You can drag it over the whole horizon or just a portion of it. Lightroom will calculate how far off it is from the horizon level, and rotate the image accordingly to correct it.You can also fix crooked pictures with Lightroom's guided transform tool. Watch the video below for more details.
Copyright: Christina Moraes
Shoot with a circular polarizer filter
A circular polarizer (CPL) filter is like sunglasses for your camera. When you're shooting on a bright sunny day, a circular polarizer creates rich, detailed photos. Circular polarizer filters are particularly important when shooting beach scenes because they allow you to cut down on glare on the water and bring out the color in the water and the sky, creating a more vibrant, balanced image.
Focus on the details
Amateur photographers walk up to a beautiful scene, snap a picture, and keep moving. While a simple beach composition showcasing the sand and water may be stunning, spending a few minutes taking in the entire scenes will reveal other possible shots.

Copyright: Tim Rosenthal
Pay attention to the light
The current light conditions greatly affect the look of the beach at any given moment. Watching the light and planning to take pictures at certain times of the day will enable you to create images that simply aren't possible in harsh mid-day sun. I like to use timeanddate.com to keep track of the current sunrise and sunset times as well as moonrise and moonset times. The Photographer's Ephemeris and Sunseeker provide even more details about the direction of the light and shadow length.
Copyright: Trelina Anderson
Back lighting is another fantastic lighting technique to experiment with at the beach. Lighting a subject from behind instead of the front or side often proves more difficult, but when executed properly, offers fantastic results. Trelina shares a beautiful example with one of her daughters, back lit on a sunny day at the beach.
Copyright: Roger Hunt

Experiment with depth of field
Shooting with different depths of field is a simple, effective way to change the focus in an image. I love to find an interesting rock or a grouping of wild plants and then position the water behind it. When you've found a subject of interest, switch your camera to Aperture Priority (Av or A) mode. Dial in a wide aperture (i.e. 1.8, 2.2) and take a few shots, then slowly work your way to a narrow aperture (i.e. 16, 22), taking pictures at each aperture. See which aperture setting you like best for your subject and the overall composition.
Copyright: Frantz Konradsen
Experiment with shutter speed
Setting up a tripod on the beach and photographing long exposures of the water is a popular technique. If you've never attempted a long exposure, it's definitely worth trying at least once or twice. Generally, you'll have the best results with long exposures during the golden hours of the day when the light is low on the horizon. If you enjoy shooting long exposures, invest in a set of neutral density filters. Neutral density filters reduce the amount of light entering the camera, allowing for even longer exposures.
Frequent favorite spots in different seasons
One of my favorite aspects of living near Lake Michigan is visiting favorite spots throughout the year and photographing them in different seasons. It's fascinating to see how the landscape changes from one season to next and how those changes affect the shooting conditions. A lakeside setting takes on a completely different aesthetic with colorful fall trees than it does with stark winter trees.
Shoot in manual mode
Shooting in manual mode gives you more control over your images. Shooting in auto mode at the beach means you'll often end up with a blown-out sky and water without much detail. When you shoot in manual mode, you can select the settings to create rich, detailed images with minimal harsh shadows and blown-out areas. If you're brand new to DSLR photography or have only shot in auto mode, it's intimidating to make the transition to manual mode. However, it's well worth the effort. Start in aperture priority or shutter priority mode, and build your skills from there.Further reading: Making the Transition from Auto Mode to Manual Mode
Copyright: Josh Hairsine
Shoot in RAW
Shooting in RAW gives you even more control over your images. A RAW file is the image that a camera sensor sees. When you shoot a JPEG, the camera processes the image for you, making a lot of the editing decisions. Once it's made these decisions, you can't recover detail that gets lost.
For example, if the clouds are very bright with blown-out areas, you won't be able to get much detail back.
On the flip side, if an image has deep shadows, the detail in these shadows is lost in a JPEG. Finally, shooting RAW enables complete control over an image's white balance. Instead of selecting a white balance in camera, you can shoot with any white balance setting and then adjust the final white balance in your editing program.Further reading: DSLR Photography 101: Don't Be Afraid of Shooting RAW
Use Lightroom's adjustment brushes
Beach landscapes often have varied lighting, which makes it difficult to capture the entire scene in full detail with balanced light. Our eyes process the varied lighting without us even realizing it in a way that cameras can't. You see numerous beach photos with harsh shadows and/or blown out skies. Many people fine tune their exposures for landscape photos, including beach photos, by using spot metering. You can further perfect your images in post-process by using Lightroom's adjustment brushes.Over years of editing beach photos, I've created adjustment brushes for editing bright skies, cloudy skies, and long exposure water. I've used these brushes in nearly every image I've shared in this post and am sharing them with you. Adjustment brushes allow you edit select sections of a photo. Creating your own adjustment brushes for edits you make over and over again streamlines the post-processing routine, so you can edit more quickly. As with any brush, action, or pre-set, typically, you'll have to tweak these brushes a bit for best results.Download your sky and water adjustment brushes! After you've saved the folder, open Lightroom. Go to Edit > Preferences. Click on the Presets tab, and then the "Show Lightroom Presets Folder" button. Open the "Local Adjustment Presets" folder. Paste your new adjustment brushes in this folder. You may need to restart Lightroom before you can see the adjustment brushes.Finally, keep your eyes open, so you can seize great opportunities for photos at the beach as they happen. Beach scenes change quickly, sometimes minute to minute as the light changes or the weather shifts. Brilliant colors appear, and then the next minute the entire scene is quiet and blue again. A fantastic boat will appear, but it's moving quickly, which means you only have seconds to get the shot. You don't want to miss these fleeting changes to capture stunning scenery.
I first saw this rainbow from my house. It was one of those drop everything and grab your camera moments. I was fortunate the rainbow stuck around long enough that I was able to get more than a couple of shots. You can see the full set on my blog.
I actually took this last shot with my phone. I was out for a walk with my husband and didn't have my DSLR with me. We walk on the beach nearly every week when the weather's nice, and I'd never seen this occur before. When I did return the next day with my DSLR, the landscape had completely changed. I'm so glad I got the shot with my phone.
Copyright: Angela Redmon
The images in this post without a noted copyright are my own images. You can see more of my photography on Instagram and my blog. The photographers who contributed photos to this post are members of the PRTV support group. Thank you for sharing your images! Learn more about becoming a PRTV member and joining our support group.
Do you have any additional tips for better beach photography?
Leave your insight in the comments!




















DSLR and mirrorless cameras and lenses are expensive. You want to buy great gear, but you don't want to break the bank. Buying used camera equipment allows you save money without compromising quality. However, it's important to be careful when purchasing used camera bodies and lenses. Before you load up your shopping cart and check out, take some time to familiarize yourself with the process of shopping for used gear online. Following a few key tips ensures you'll get a good deal on high-quality equipment and that if you don't, you'll be able to return it and get a refund.I got inspired to write about this topic after I saved $300 on a near perfect condition copy of the 

Instagram Albums, a small but important update is rolling out today giving users access to a simple album feature finally. You'll now have the option to upload up to 10 photos and videos under one post. When you see an album icon on a post it will look somewhat the same as before but you'll now be able to swipe left and right to view other photos and video.The update technically means fewer posts, which means less reach. Important photos you want out should still be separate posts on Instagram to get more eyes on them. If you have a metric ton of photos from a shoot or have a few that go in a set it's a new way to share them out without spamming your feed but we wouldn't suggest this for everyday use. You now have the option to think out of the box for other creative ideas such as before and after editing.Watch the video below for a demo, you simply select the bottom right album symbol in the photo selection. You then have the option to choose multiple photos or videos. The post will have one caption for all the items, unlike Facebook for example, and you're limited to square aspect ratio. For those that use filters, you will have the option to apply one to the whole set or apply different filters to specific photos.https://player.vimeo.com/video/204951185 




The Sigma 100-400mm 5-6.3 DG HSM OS Contemporary is a state-of-the-art telephoto zoom that brings a new level of portability and quality to the super telephoto market. Touting Sigma’s Optical Stabilizer (OS), the Sigma 100-400mm 5-6.3 Contemporary is highly compact and lightweight compared to similar products on this market. A push/pull zooming function and a new Hyper Sonic Motor (HSM) allow for a more responsive approach to photography while a 1:3.8 macro feature can be utilized from up close or from a further distance.Physical Specs -Weight 2.56 lb (1160 g)Diameter 86 mm (3.4″)Length 182 mm (7.18″)Sealing Yesfor comparison the
The Sigma 24-70mm 2.8 DG HSM OS Art is a premium workhorse zoom lens designed for the latest high megapixel DSLRs. A constant aperture of 2.8 through the zoom range make this a highly versatile tool and a brand new Optical Stabilization (OS) system help compensate for camera shake. Though a common focal length, the Sigma 24-70mm Art brings a new level of usability and durability featuring a rugged metal barrel and an emphasis on image quality. Building off the experience from the 12-24mm Art, the aspherical elements used in the 24-70mm 2.8 OS Art undergo a highly precise level of polishing producing elements thicker in the center then on the edges. This process creates stunning image quality and beautiful circular bokeh.Canon does not have a stabilized 24-70 f/2.8 and I suspect this new ART lens will be as sharp as Canon's current 24-70 f/2.8 L and it offers stabilization and it will likely be cheaper. Downsides? I don't see any right now as long as this lens is up to the standard of Sigma's existing ART series line. It even has a slightly smaller front filter size 80mm vs 82mm in the Canon. On price I suspect somewhere around $1400 slightly more expensive than the Tamron version. I expect this ART to be much better than the Tamron.
The Sigma 135mm 1.8 DG HSM Art is a medium telephoto prime lens designed for modern high megapixel DSLRs. A new large Hyper Sonic Motor produces significant torque to the focusing group for better speed while the acceleration sensor detects the position of the lens and compensates for such factors as gravity to help aid in focusing performance. This state-of-the-art prime lens touts a dust and splash proof construction for guaranteed performance in any condition and its large 1.8 Fstop allows for more creative control over imagery. A stunning compression effect make the Sigma 135m 1.8 Art the ideal portrait lens while its large aperture help with event photography and much more.This seems very similar in size and weight to the
The Sigma 14mm 1.8 DG HSM Art is the world's first 1.8 prime lens at the 14mm focal length. This fast wide prime features the same large aspherical element touted in the Sigma 12-24mm F4 Art to control distortion and create stunning imagery. An updated Hyper Sonic Motor (HSM) provides fast and accurate autofocus while 3 Premium FLD and 4 SLD glass elements control chromatic aberration and sagittal comma flare. Building on the highly reputable Art line, the Sigma 14mm 1.8 DG HSM Art is designed to resolve the latest high megapixel DSLR sensors.This lens is an astrophotographers dream! That is of course hoping it is at the level of their other ART series lenses and minimizes distortion. To have a full frame lens as fast as f/1.8 gives you some awesome flexibility when shooting the night sky. Also useful for low light receptions and documentary work. Guess - $1100.00
New lens elements (UD Glass) gives you sharper results at an economical price point with better light disbursement over its predecessors and cheaper than fluorite glass elements typically found in high-end zoom lenses. While it softens in the corners just a touch and has a variable 4-5.6 max open aperture as cons, the savings and versatility in video mode make this my new go to kit tele-zoom lens.We all know that shooting distances in photo mode can be tricky and it gets even more complicated in video mode. Capturing a professional result that is not too shaky or not sharp enough can often be difficult when dealing with older zoom lenses. Because Canon DSLR’s often leave the IS up to lens to do the work having this much stabilization will be a game changer when shooting run and gun close ups especially in 4k video mode on the 5D Mk iv (pushes the focal length over 400mm).
In a two camera shoot having a reliable B-cam on close-ups that can publish smooth cutaways can make or break the final outcome of a short form advertisement or YouTube video. Also having a digital display that can give you quick reference on focal length (Which updates for APS-C cameras), aperture and more is the next step in lens evolution.Lastly, saving on space and weight can be a nice addition when traveling and trying to make it in those shrinking overhead bins. As sensor technology continues to expand almost daily it's nice to see that the lenses have started to get some new tech as well.
With the Nikon D5600 now available for the US and Canon T7i available for pre-order it's that time again for a bit of a comparison. At one point, Nikon had put on a good showing with the D5300 leading the market for photography while our video recommendation had been going to the Canon T5i. Since then Nikon camera's have been stagnating under minor updates while the T7i got a decent upgrade in processing, sensor, connectivity, and focus certainly pushing it closer to the top of our list.









A new year and new Canons to match with the newly announced Canon T7i (800D) and 77D (9000D). Odd's are you're wondering a bit where the 77D fits in, both Toby and I have been asked a lot this week. On paper, it's a replacement to the T6S as a bridge camera between the entry level T7i and 80D. While making the product line and obscure Canon naming just slightly harder it makes things a bit more drawn out with the bare bones budget T6, the new entry level T7i for beginners, the 77D making a step up with video, then going to the 80D as a truly semi-pro platform.






https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bpERpJG7VDYAnd an updated mirrorless camera! SO Canon just announced - a Canon T7i (800D), a 77D (9000D) and the M6 (mirrorless camera) - If you are trying to figure out where the new 77D fits in the line up you are not alone - I have had a handful of confused readers write in over the last week, based on our post about the leaked specs, asking what the Canon 77D offers vs the Canon 80D. I have a quick comparison below but briefly the 77D is the successor to the T6s and the T7i is the successor to the Canon T6i. Canon will continue to offer the T6i making their line of Rebels quite large with a T5, T6, Sl1, T5i, T6i, T6s, T7i, 70D, 77D, 80D ALL still being offered/sold.. That's quite the lineup. The big headline - DUAL PIXEL AF is in the new cameras!! That is the fast and smooth AF during live view - immensely helpful for video and makes using live view a much more pleasant experience. Additionally Canon has shrunk the T7i a bit more, this makes me think we will not see a SL2 anytime soon.A quick comparison of the two new DSLRS the T7i and the 77D with the older T6i/T6s and the 80D. below the chart I have a few more differences between the 77D and the T7i and some recommendations about which you might want to buy.
Canon 77D(left) vs Canon T7i(right) top view





