New GoPro Model & GoPro Price Drop
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GoPro has announced a new model- an entry level model, the GoPro Hero+ Wi-Fi, Priced at $199.00.We now have three Hero+ models - these are the more basic, no-frill models that ditch a version number.Hero + is $129.00 - Shop on Amazon(NEW) Hero + Wi-Fi $199 Shop on Amazon or B&H Photo - Shipping Oct 4thHero + LCD $299.00 Shop on AmazonMuch of the difference between these models is distinguishable by name with a few additional key features
| Model | Hero | Hero+ | Hero+ LCD |
|---|---|---|---|
| Top Video Resolution | 1080p30 | 1080p60 | 1080p60 |
| Still Photos | 5MP (5fps burst) | 8MP (5fps burst) | 8MP (5fps burst) |
| Connectivity | N/A | Wi-Fi & Bluetooth | Wi-Fi & Bluetooth |
| LCD | N/A | N/A | Yes - Touchsensitive |
| Price | $129 | $199 | $299 |
Hero+ offers a basic action cam capable of 1080p at 30fps. The Hero+ Wi-fi offers 1080p at 60fps AND Wi-Fi connectivity. The Hero+ LCD provides the 1080p at 60fps, Wi-Fi connectivity AND a touch sensitive LCD on the back for easier control of the camera and easier feedback on what you are capturing.The Hero4 series is the higher end offering additional features and power including 4k video.
The GoPro Hero4 session received a price drop, now selling for $299. Shop Amazon Quick Thoughts - Gopro continues to dominate the market and now offer a camera at every price point. The number of GoPro's I have seen tourists using for selfies and general photography is regrettable. They make good action cameras but are not the best for general photography and I will be talking more about a really sweet alternative soon - the Olympus TG-860 that I used in Greece.
A good habit to get into today is taking notes, it may seem a bit silly at first but you will be better for it. While there is that magical 1% that can pull a photo out of nothing with natural talent for the rest of us we need experience and notes to fall back on. Amateurs all the way to pros keep notes because you can’t keep 100% of everything in your head. 
for green grass in your photos and having issues? In Lightroom use the HSL slider to adjust the yellow hue to the right by 10 for green grass and lower the yellow saturation by the same amount. While it is a starting point you might find you need to adjust the hue more for your preferred level of green. If you have multiple yellow subjects in your photo using a Hue/Saturation layer in photoshop is preferable as you can use a layer mask to select only what you would like to change. 
Dust on the sensor typically doesn’t show up unless you are shooting at smaller apertures. Bigger bits might show up starting around f/8, but it is really above f/14 and up to f/22 where you see the dust. If you are shooting lots of landscapes, this can be an issue. If you are shooting lots of portraits, with apertures below f/5.6 you can stop reading and go back to enjoying life. It is unlikely you will see any dust impact your image.
The first step in cleaning is to determine how dirty your sensor is. A quick way to test is to take a picture of a clean white piece of paper at f/8, f/14 and f/22 - don’t worry about your shutter speed - the dust spots will be sharp even if you shoot at slow shutter speeds, but you do want to keep your ISO fairly low to avoid noise confusing the issue. You could also photograph the sky on a clear day.Now pop that image in Lightroom and in the develop module there is a nifty option to Visual Spots located under the Spot removal tool. 
Rollover the image below to see the before and after Visual Spots with my Sony a7RII sensor at f/22[himage]
[/himage]If your sensor looks like Sony a7RII sensor does after just a few weeks of use - you probably want to clean it.Many DSLRS and Mirrorless cameras have a sensor cleaning mode - some run every time you turn the camera on or off and some run when selected. This is the first option you should try. With many of the systems, it is recommended to either hold the camera normally or facedown with the lens off so that the dust falls out. The Sony A7RII I have violently vibrates the sensor for a second or two and did absolutely nothing to reduce the amount of dust on the sensor. Hopefully you will have better results. Test again after using the in camera method.
The next step is to use a rocket blower - NEVER use compressed air or air in a can dust off products. Again hold the camera in such a way that the dust will fall out and give a few puffs directed at different areas of the sensor. They do sell sensor loupes - little magnifiers with led lights that make it easier to judge your progress. I used a tiny LED bike light to help see the sensor but it is clear that a bit of magnification will help too as some of these dust specks are invisible to the naked eye.$17 
The commlite doesn't feel exactly cheap in the hand but it does feel a little less substantial, the sound is cheaper, tinnier and I have found that with the sony adapter the lens lock pin sticks, so you often need to manually slide it forward or the lens will not lock in place.
The tripod foot is less secure and becomes annoyingly loose at times and I found it difficult to tighten once the camera is attached to a tripod or tripod plate. The EF to MFT doesn’t have a tripod foot at all and the lens lock pin never seems to stick, always working correctly. One more important point - the Metabones adapters have a micro USB port for firmware updates and in the case of this EF to M43 Speedbooster I have, that allowed me to easily upgrade the firmware and I now have autofocus capabilities when I didn’t before! As far as I know there is no way to upgrade the firmware on the Commlite adapters.
Performance - with the Metabones EF to Micro four thirds adapter, performance is very good- I have used this setup with a variety of my canon lenses over the last 8 months and never had a single connection issue or error. With the new firmware update I now have autofocus and it works well albeit slower and less sure of itself compared to native, MFT lenses. I can’t say the same about the performance of the Commlite - I have only had it a few days but It fails after just a few seconds with almost all lenses - when it works longer than a few seconds there are AF capabilities but aperture is zeroed out and trying to change aperture or taking a photo causes the connection to fail.
Clearly something is not working here and I have reached out to the company. Check back for updates. The EF to E Commlite adapter actually works, and with some lenses Autofocus is just as good as with the Metabones but when you compare the complete list of lenses I tested using the two adapters, the Metabones performs better with a greater number of lenses.
To be fair both offer a list of compatible lenses so you can check to see if the Commlite or Metabones will work for you but it was apparent that when the same lens is on both lists the Metabones will offer slightly faster and more consistent focusing. The Commlite and any lens combination never outperformed the Metabones but with the 
Price will be $599 each and available at the end of September. (Sony mount* available later this year) This sounds reasonable for lenses of this caliber and speed with VC. A few more specs worth detailing more-The close focusing capabilities are impressive. The 45mm can focus as close as 11.42" (.29m) and the 35mm can focus as close as 7.87" (.20m). That close with that wide an aperture will give you VERY shallow depth of field.9 aperture blades should provide smooth bokeh (the more blades the smoother the out of focus circles. The Old nifty-fifty had just 5 blades and you could often see pentagonal shapes of bokeh)Lens hood included!They are calling these lenses weather resistant. I will mention that Tamron has one of the best warranties in the bsiness with 6 years for US buyers and quick repair turn around time.Preorder at B&H Photo Video45mm f/1.8 for 
Sigma 35mm f/1.4 DG HSM Art Lens vs Canon EF 35mm f/1.4L II USM Lens - Leave a comment below with your pick. And don't forget APS- shooters, you have the very nice Sigma 18-35 f/1.8 as an option. Watch my 
