Toby loved the Fuji X-T2 and it's on sale today. You can pick it up, along with the best walk around lens with this month's deals. But you don't have to take it from me, check out Toby's review below for this hot mirrorless camera.[embed]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OKew22eOUQI[/embed]
Canon has a new batch of rebates including their top L grade lenses you can buy. The Canon 24-70mm and 70-200mm lenses are excellent and versatile pieces of glass - sharp, excellent in low light and a pair of lenses coveted by wedding, event and portrait photographers. The Canon 100mm Macro is a close-up dream lens for macro shots such as rings, product photography, and can still do portraits if you're in a pinch. Check the B&H rebates page out, Canon has deals on these lenses and more!
We get asked a lot how to upload to Instagram, I even covered it a couple years back. The problem is that most of the older methods have fallen to the dreaded "Shadow Ban". If banned Instagram hides your hashtags so you don't gain followers, but stealthily so you don't notice. With that in mind, Felix Sun used a recent mobile trick to make a mini Instagram program that lets you upload via Mac or PC for free.Recently Instagram allowed mobile uploads, using the browser on your phone you can upload to Instagram without having the app installed. Using this trick you can tell your desktop's browser to pretend it's a mobile device and upload away. But it's a bit of a clumsy trick that is more advanced. Felix's program is a mini version of chrome already set to mobile, just log in the first time and upload. A dialog box will pop up to add a file then the rest is like normal.Head over to windowed.io and check it out. Upload an easy way, or at least until they ban this as well. Our official and Instagram friendly uploader of choice is Later.com. You can check it out in Toby's video here and it lets you schedule posts.If you were wondering how to do it in a browser anyway:In Safari
Enable the Develop Menu. Click Safari, Preferences, then Advanced. Check 'Show Develop menu in menu bar'.
Now while on Instagram.com. Click the new Develop button in your menu, user agent, then iPad. You may have to refresh the page.
In Chrome
You can install User-Agent Switcher, the new button in the top right when clicked lets you tell Instagram you are a mobile device. Just remember to turn it off when you leave Instagram.
Without using an extension, press F12 for Developer Tools. Click the phone icon at the top left of the new panel or press Ctrl+Shift+M. The top left option to the left of dimensions lets you choose iPad, then reload the page.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gR5JCfqLb-IGet beyond the settings and focus on the image, the key point to a recent article we had on the weekly live show. As photographers when we go to shoot we're balancing the camera settings, composition, timing, not tripping on something, and possibly handling a model. When you're starting out you usually cram learning the camera settings, but what's the next step?
As you move beyond the basic settings and focus more on composition your photography is going to improve immensely.
How we approach a scene usually goes aperture, shutter speed, then ISO. A shallow setting like f/2.8 is perfect for a portrait but a landscape needs something a bit slower at f/8 (btw, video on aperture coming soon!). Next shutter speed comes into play, you need to make sure the shutter speed is 2x the focal length to be safe, the reciprocal rule. You can find out more about shutter speed settings here and here. Once we get that down as a start, then we need to move past it to improve.
What about AV mode? We've all been at the mercy of a wrong camera setting at some point. The thing is the camera is smart, but it's not you, it just sees pixels and can't interpret a scene. Especially if my subject is moving, dancing, running and even walking - the camera doesn’t know this on AV mode and you'll end up with a blurry subject. Manual puts you in control letting you tell the camera what you need.But AUTO ISO can be good - Compared to aperture or shutter speed, ISO means the least to a shot technically. That it affects exposure and noise only, compared to aperture and shutter speed that drastically alter the look of a shot. With modern cameras, a high ISO setting can mean a bit of noise and has to be extremely high before it is a detriment to a photo. Having AUTO ISO on takes away part of the exposure triangle I have to focus on and lets me concentrate more on composition and timing.If you are starting out get those camera settings down. That way it's secondhand, so you don't need to be chimping (checking the screen) when it counts. Once you understand that then you can let the camera take over, a little bit, giving you room to be creative and focus on more important issues.
A focus on people this week without the face. We typically go for headshots so this is a nice focus on the other angles for some creative shots. Next Week’s Challenge: #PRTV_warmFind out more about upcoming challenges and past winners at photorec.tv/prtv.You can follow Photorec.TV on Instagram at @Photorec.tv and the team:
Toby’s Features:
The classic mud puddles kids shot that works great for this challenge, having the face away lets us fill in for the emotion.
Hopefully, your weekend went better than mine the other day, I accidentally broke my intervalometer's cable... Always fun. So in cases like this, it's where I break out the Sugru, a mouldable glue that hardens into a rubberized silicone. You might remember a few years back in an article, I used this on my tripod plate adapted for Black Rapid making a tighter fit and keeping everything snug. Since I'm cheap and an intervalometer costs about $20 I'll go with the $4 fix.Sugru is basically like Play-Dou for adults so using it is pretty simple. Once opening the package all I had to do was stick it to the cable, shape it, and let it sit for a day. Compared to electrical tape it makes a thorough seal that works great. As it's made from silicone it's waterproof, handles heat/cold, durable, and shockproof... so perfect for fixing a cable. It's great for DIY repairs as Sugru sticks permanently to lots of stuff like ceramics, glass, metal, wood, rubber, most plastics, and fabrics. Some Tips For Using Sugru:
There's a new family-friendly formula that's less messy and the original formula. Personally, I stick with original but it's up to you, I use gloves with the original as its a bit sticky.
Store in the fridge to get it to keep longer, 3X! I throw it in the butter drawer honestly and get it to last about a year or more.
Make sure everything is clean, including you. Sugru bonds better to clean surfaces and it tends to pick up dust so keeping clean is best. I use a paper plate for a clean area, sugru can stain when fresh and a plate is disposable.
Pressing against it with a flat object helps get smooth edges. It's like Play-Dou, just using something smooth rolled against it adds a nice clean finish. If it's sticking apply some soapy water to your object to smooth it out without sticking.
Repairing cords is just the start though really. Add magnets to hold gear, repair a hole in your camera bag, make stands for product photos, make a clip, bond two pieces of gear together for a mount, make a grip, and more.Just FYI, use the code PARTYHAT at Sugru's site for 40% from now until Sunday, October 8th, midnight PST. Otherwise, if you missed out check out Amazon to get a great deal and get your DIY on today. As a little goes far I suggest the 3 packs (black | white | mixed), just remember to store them somewhere cold to last longer.
No other camera produces beautiful and stabilized footage at this price point and this easily. The perfect camera for capturing your video needs from vlog style travel to serious documentaries and indie films.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oRZI1WugGqw[gallery ids="16107,16108,16109,16110,16111,16112,16113,16114,16115,16116,16117,16118,16119,16120,16121,16122"]
With the start to fall it’s senior portrait time here in Michigan so we had you shooting high key photos! You were not stuck with portraits this week and it’s nice to see some out of the box entries. Next Week’s Challenge: #PRTV_facelessFind out more about upcoming challenges and past winners at photorec.tv/prtv.You can follow Photorec.TV on Instagram at @Photorec.tv and the team:
10 minutes of time for $10 to use on Amazon. Sign up to Amazon Music's free 30 day trial for a free $10 promotional code (expires 10/31, can cancel right after). Easy peasy. As for some ideas you can get a Sandisk SD card, Reflector, or Eneloop batteries (for flash).
Once you sign up with the code you'll get a free 30 day trial of Amazon Music and the $10 promo code will be good in your account until 10/31. The $10 is good for anything sold by Amazon.com but it won't work on 3rd party sellers.
Scroll down for recommended lenses and comparisons against the competitors
https://youtu.be/OKew22eOUQIDownload Fuji X-T2 Raw files - Sign up for my occasional and non-spammy newsletter
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[gallery td_select_gallery_slide="slide" ids="16055,16056,16057,16058,16059,16060,16061"] The Fuji X-T2 is one of the most well-rounded, mirrorless, camera on the market today. You can even drop the mirrorless qualifier and I feel the statement still holds true. But, this camera isn't for everyone and there are a host of fantastic cameras to choose from. In this post, I share some thoughts on worthy Fuji Competitors and how they match up.I mentioned in the video
The Canon 6D Mark II (Full Frame DSLR) vs Fuji X-T2 (APS-C Mirrorless)
Canon EOS 6D Mark II DSLR Camera (Body Only) $1,999.00Fujifilm X-T2 Mirrorless Digital Camera with 18-55mm Lens $1,899.00Canon wins with low light performance and a huge lens selectionCanon loses on size, weight, video features and lack of dedicated AF joystick and single card slotThe Canon is larger, heavier and uses larger and heavier full frame lenses - making the entire package a good bit more serious to carry around BUT the 6D Mark II does better in low light and offers a HUGE selection of Canon and 3rd party lenses, many of which are quite affordable and some help with the portability (pancake primes like the 40mm f/2.8). The Canon also has a fully articulating touch screen which makes recording yourself easy though you are limited to 1080p at just 60fps and the quality while decent isn't exciting. The Fuji provides 4K at 30fps, better AF coverage, much faster burst rate and a dedicated joystick for AF control along with dual card slots. Travel photographers and landscape photographers that are hiking to destinations, I think you will find the smaller size and weight of the Fuji and associated lenses to be a serious advantage along with the ability to charge on the go.
The Sony a6300/a6500 (APS-C Mirrorless) vs Fuji X-T2 (APS-C Mirrorless)
Sony wins on price, weight and video performance (especially a6500 stabilized)Sony loses when you compare ergonomics, aps-c lens(selection and quality) and lack of dual card slots.Sony Alpha a6300 Mirrorless Digital Camera with 16-50mm Lens & Free Kit $998.00Fujifilm X-T2 Mirrorless Digital Camera with 18-55mm Lens $1,899.00While the Sony a6xxx series is more traditional in the sense of a mode dial and layout, the Fuji is a far more physical camera with well-marked buttons and dials for just about everything a photographer could need. The Sony weighs less - offers similar image and video quality and offers nicely portable lenses like the Fuji but- there are only a handful of APS-C lenses for sony that are really exciting and very little is weather sealed. For the sharpest glass, you will likely buy full frame Sony- expensive and heavy. Also in a battle of the kit lenses - Fuji kills Sony's little 16-50 lens which is exceptionally travel-friendly but not the highest quality. Note - the a6500 offers a stabilized sensor.
The Panasonic G85/GH5 (Micro 4/3rds Mirrorless) vs Fuji X-T2 (APS-C Mirrorless)
Pre top picks warning! You will probably have the munchies after this! Great photos this week guys, and we might do this again soon with the schedule I’m working on atm. Toby even pitched in this week with a dinner shot https://www.instagram.com/p/BZg0v3RntdR/. Next Week’s Challenge: #PRTV_highkey2Find out more about upcoming challenges and past winners at photorec.tv/prtv.You can follow Photorec.TV on Instagram at @Photorec.tv and the team:
Toby’s Features:
I am hungry for waffles! Tight shot so cleanly lit!
We like to keep this challenge a bit open and what's better than a portrait with food! On the plus side it looks like a fridge works as a decent light source.
Widest aperture lens at this focal length (allows for shorter exposures and or exposures with low ISO shooting the stars, Milky Way and Aurora Borealis
I struggle to come up with anything bad to say about this lens. Sure it uses 95mm Filters and all but the thinnest filters will add some vignetting but it is one of the only lenses on this list that even takes screw on filters. It is very easy to work with in the dark, the locking focus ring and the click stop at infinity focus are helpful when shooting the stars. It is as sharp as the Sigma too! All of this for just $400!
Lovely walk around focal length for general photography
Bad
On crop 24 = 36mm, less exciting for wide starry skies
Manual focus only
On a full frame, 24mm is often plenty wide enough for a nice starry sky or milky way shot. At f/1.4 this is a fast lens, is useful for daytime landscape shots with a normal filter size of 77mm but manual focus only does limit the versatility of this lens and it isn't the sharpest option here.
No filter threads - Costly filter system for daytime use
The widest & best option for crop users on the list (I don't love the fisheye look for stars or milky way photos) This small, light and affordable lens is hard to beat but the slightly faster IRIX firefly is sharper and offer some nice features that make it worth the sacrifice of a few mm.
This lens is VERY wide with the typical fisheye look
Very affordable.
Bad
Crop Only
No filters
f/3.5
Fisheye even more limited in use.
I don't love the look from a fisheye lens for the stars or milky way shots but if you do this would be the lens to grab. The good news, it is super affordable!
This tiny lens is great for mirrorless crop sensor photographers shooting Sony, Fuji, Panasonic or Olympus. It takes filters, is very affordable and lightweight, not quite as sharp and offers a little more distortion than the IRIX or Sigma but excellent still.
The Tokina 11-16 for Canon and Nikon is one of the best value lenses on this list. It's not the sharpest and certainly has more distortion than the primes but it is a versatile lens with a good range and offer autofocus along with filter use making it possible to tackle a variety of situations.
Canon EF 16-35mm f/2.8L III USM Lens - Sharp, fast and relatively little distortion for an ultra-wide zoom lens and accepts regular filters AND is travel-friendly. - B&H Photo for $1,999.00Tamron SP 15-30mm f/2.8 Di VC USD - One of the few ultra wide full frame lenses that offer stabilization. If you are careful you can handhold this at almost a second exposure. Not really helpful for stars/Milkyway but still useful. More distortion and not as sharp as the Canon listed above or the Nikon listed below but still a versatile lens . though be aware it's HEAVY - B&H Photo for $1,099.00Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 14-24mm f/2.8G ED Lens - The gold standard for ultra wide angle zooms.Incredibly sharp and useful though it is big and heavy - B&H Photo for $1,896.95
Related Videos
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8An3dzcgCWE
Affordable Ultra Wide Angle Zooms for Crop Cameras
We went old school this week with Retro. Whether it was an old item, one with a nod to the past, a throwback portrait, or just a creative edit it was up to you.Next Week’s Challenge: #PRTV_food2(Check out Rose's Food Photography Tips)Find out more about upcoming challenges and past winners at photorec.tv/prtv.You can follow Photorec.TV on Instagram at @Photorec.tv and the team:
Toby’s Features:
Huge props for the camera! The nice tight crop is great with the focus on the camera.
https://youtu.be/8An3dzcgCWE Download Full Raw Images from All three lenses. Sigma 14mm ART Samples, Irix 15mm Blackstone Samples and Rokinon/Samyang 14mm f/2.8 Sample RAW Images. (images for personal comparison only)Buy the IRIX 15mm LensBuy the SIgma 14mm LensBuy the Rokinon/Samyang 14mm LensEdited Sample Images[gallery td_select_gallery_slide="slide" td_gallery_title_input="Sigma 14mm Sample Images" ids="15953,15954,15955,15956"]Additional Sigma 14mm Samples Shot by Steve Scurich Photography[gallery td_select_gallery_slide="slide" ids="15959,15960,15961,15962,15963,15964,15965,15966"]IRIX Blackstone 15mm Sample Shots[gallery td_select_gallery_slide="slide" ids="15967,15968,15969,15970"]
Food photography is all the rage these days, with thousands of Instagram users posting their drool-worthy kitchen creations and restaurant meals everyday. It's easy to assume these photographers are using high-end equipment or are blessed with amazing natural light in their kitchens. While a DSLR camera and gorgeous lighting will help you take better photos, there is a lot more that goes into making stellar food images. The following steps will get you on your way to improving your food photography.
Find the best natural light in your house
The best lighting in the house often isn't in the kitchen. When you do have beautiful light in the kitchen, you may need to move your food away from the stove or counters and over to the window to create crisp, bright images. When you don't have beautiful light in the kitchen, set up your food shoots in a different area of your home that lends itself better to photography.
Alternatively, use artificial lighting
When you're struggling to shoot in the available natural light in your house or don't want the daylight hours to restrict your shooting, consider an artificial lighting setup. When executed properly, artificial lighting produces consistent, bright shots. Typically, I use two desk lamps with daylight bulbs and two DIY Lowel EGO lights for my artificial lighting setup.
Minimize clutter in your shooting space
Getting rid of unnecessary items and other distractions in your food photography is critical for creating clean, focused images that allow the food to shine. When you begin a food photography session, clear your shooting surface of miscellaneous cooking gear and other household items. If you aren't shooting against a neutral background, such as a white wall, create your own backdrop with a wood board, patterned paper, or even poster board.
Add a garnish or other finishing touch to your dish
A garnish or other finishing touch will take any food photography shoot up a notch, boosting your results from casual, amateur shots to polished, professional images. For example, if you're photographing hummus, add a drizzle of olive oil and maybe a few sprigs of parsley. If you're photographing a bowl of soup, top it with a sprinkling of cheese.
Style your food with nice dishes and a couple of props
Choosing dishes and other props specifically for your recipe makes your images more intentional, creating a more powerful visual story. Start with items you already own. Taking the time to style a sandwich on a plate with a napkin and glass of water makes the whole meal together. If you want to expand your prop collection, scout thrift stores and rummage or estate sales for interesting pieces on the cheap. Etsy and eBay are also great options for affordable, unique, vintage items.
Clean up any drops and splatters
You'll complete the polished, professional aesthetic for your images by taking an extra few seconds to wipe up any drips on the plate or pan. If the pot is really dirty or the bowl has more splatters than you can easily wipe up with a single paper towel, plate your food with clean dishes.
Convey interaction with the food
Set up a tripod or enlist a family member or friend to help you with your food photography shoot, so you can create a few interactive shots. Pouring the dressing over the salad or getting ready to lift the soup spoon up to your mouth further adds to the narrative. It will take some trial and error to perfect these shots, but it's well worth the effort.
Experiment with different angles
When you're preparing for a food photography shoot, allow time to take ample shots, photographing the dish from at least three or four different angles. You may be really happy with your initial idea for the shoot, but it may take a little while to nail the best angle for a particular dish. To get the classic overhead shot you see so frequently on Instagram these days, grab a chair or stepstool, so you can get above your food (safely!).
Consider “in progress” shots for recipes and other food-related blog posts
In progress shots, such as the cookie dough mixed in the bowl or the meat cooking on the stove, further add to the story you're telling. As you're preparing for your food photography shoot, jot down a short list of ideas, so you won't forget to take a few in progress shots as you make your dish. Sneak peek or behind the scene shots also make great teaser content on social media. If you’re planning to publish a new recipe later in the week, publish a shot of your ingredient spread in the kitchen or the empty cookie mixing bowl a few days before the recipe goes live.
Shoot with a prime lens
Many food photographers shoot extensively, or even exclusively, with prime lenses. While you may want a zoom lens to capture a few wide angle shots of your spread, most likely you'll want to shoot the majority of your images with a 50mm, 85mm, or even 100mm lens. Getting up close with your food brings people right into your kitchen, which is key for making food enticing when someone can't actually be there smelling and tasting it. Personally, I shoot most of my food photography with a 50mm lens, using a 100mm lens selectively for a few really tight images, such as the hummus image above.
Pick up a diffuser or reflector to minimize shadows
Harsh shadows often leave sections of an image underexposed. For certain types of photography, you may want to create this sort of aesthetic. However, for most food photography, harsh shadows are less than desirable. A diffuser or reflector is a simple, affordable way to minimize the shadows in your food shoot. The easiest, cheapest way to create an effective reflector is to fold a piece of white foam board in half.
Adjust your aperture manually to ensure proper depth of field and focus
Ideally, you want to shoot in manual mode, so you have full control over the ISO, aperture, and shutter speed for your food images. If manual mode is too overwhelming right now (and that's okay!) or you prefer to work with your camera's priority mode, choose aperture priority mode. Take care to shoot with an aperture wide enough to keep the image in proper focus. A few images with a narrow focus to highlight certain aspects of the dish will add to your story. But you don't want all of your shots to have a narrow focus. It's rare I shoot wider than 3.2 for food photography.The 9/21 Photorec.tv Instagram challenge is food. Submit your best food photography images by tagging them #PRTV_food2 and #PRTV. The challenge closes at noon EDT on 9/27. Limit two entries. Recent photos only. Check out the full list of PRTV challenges to participate in future challenges.
Do you have any tips to improve your food photography?
Bug 3 $130 drone vs DJI Spark $500 drone vs DJI Mavic $999 drone. Which one would you want?https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LwB2rRnvHeA
Go Cheap for a First Drone?
I was curious. The DJI Spark at $500 ($699 for the recommended Fly More Combo) is still pretty pricey for someone considering their first drone and I wondered how these much more affordable drones on Amazon compared. So I picked up the Drocon Bug3 on Amazon - $130 bucks, throw in a cheap action camera that does 1080 or even 4K for $60 and you have some significant savings versus the DJI Options - is it worth it? There is a common misconception that ALL drones are hard to fly and you should practice with something cheaper so crashes aren't as costly. It isn't a bad idea BUT most of the time the cheaper drones ARE much harder to fly. With DJI drones like the Spark and the Mavic you press a button and the drone takes off and hovers at 3 feet, waiting for further instructions. You don't need to do anything. Then press the stick up it goes up. Stop pressing the stick up it stops and hovers. Move it forward toward an obstacle and it will warn you before stopping short of running into the tree/wall etc. Yes, DJI still makes drones you can crash, it's just that they are easy to fly carefully as you practice.The Drocon Bug3 is not like this. The $130 drone does not provide one button take off, altitude hold, GPS, a gimbal for stabilized footage, no way to see what the camera is capturing, no way to control the camera. It does provide a touchy, racing style drone that is fun and challenging to fly. Just know that I crashed it more times on the first day of flying than all the other drones I have ever flown combined! I do not recommend it as a first drone or a drone to buy if you desire good photos/videos from the air. For aerial photography/videography, the DJI drones have a big advantage AND are much easier to fly.
DJI Spark vs DJI Mavic
I love the portability of both. The Mavic folds small and fits nicely in my camera bag where my 70-200 lens usually sits. The Spark doesn’t fold up, but still easily fits in my camera bag though it feels a little more awkward. The Spark is lighter, the batteries are smaller and it can charge via USB making it extremely portable. When you sit it next to an unfolded Mavic you realize just how much smaller it is- and that makes the flying fun - I found myself launching this indoors and outdoors in environments that the Mavic just felt too large to comfortably fly in - and that’s pretty cool.You trade off some features for the smaller size of the Spark. While the Mavic is capable of 24 minutes flight time, closer to 30 with the new Platinum. The Spark offers just 16 minutes in ideal conditions and in flying both of these - I am almost always done with getting the shots I need with the Mavic and have plenty of battery left. With the Spark, it feels fairly urgent to get the shots I need in that shorter timeframe. The Mavic is faster and while you can switch the Spark into sports mode I have struggled to get very cinematic looking shots when it that mode, the Mavic in normal mode is fast enough and remains smoothly controllable. You also sacrifice range - the Mavic can be flown nearly 4 miles away, the Spark just over a mile when using the controllers for each- honestly here in the United States, you need to keep them both in sight at all times so the difference doesn’t bother me much. And it’s important to mention that the spark at $500 does not come with a controller - you control with the DJI app on your phone - that range is much more limited, just 100 meters and while the Mavic is capable of this too it’s really not something I recommend. The lack of tactile feedback and trying to keep your eyes on the drone plus the screen that your fingers are partially obscuring just make it awkward.Difference in the external controllers too with the Mavic providing an LCD screen with some basic info (though everything important is also displayed through the app so you don’t really miss out on info but I find it nice to have my altitude and distance in a dedicated spot), you also have a 5 way configurable stick that is replaced by a simple button on the Spark controller and a few additional customizable buttons on the Mavic controller.But of course the Spark can be flown without any controller at all via gesture mode and not something available on the Mavic - it feels a bit gimmicky and at times I struggled to get it to do much other than take off and land on my palm but when it works it is fun to use and certainly impresses your friends.Both cameras share the same sensor though the mavic is capable of shooting RAW stills that gives you more editing capabilities, offers a slightly wider fixed aperture f/2.2 vs f/2.6 in the spark and, shooting 4k video with 3 axis gimbal support vs just 1080 and 2 axis gimbal in the Spark at a lower bit rate. I my testing I certainly see an advantage with the Mavic in stills and video quality, especially in lower light. The spark isn’t bad - it just feels a touch behind what the Mavic provides in quality. I haven’t really noticed a difference between the 2 axis and 3 axis gimbals - the spark video looks just as stable smooth.You do see a noticeable difference in control options for both photos and video in the app - Not only does the Mavic provide the RAW shooting you have color profiles for video and you can customize the speed of the gimbal for very controlled, cinematic looking shots - not possible on the Spark.The Spark is cheaper, lighter, smaller and in some ways more fun to fly but does not provide 4k and its image quality/video quality is decent but not quite as good as the Mavic.The Mavic costs more but offers image and video quality that I love using in my travel videos along with the extended flight time and faster speed while remaining cinematic and still being portable enough to bring along just about everywhere.I think the Spark makes a great first drone but the Mavic has those additional advantages that make it worthwhile for the serious content creators that need to travel.I recommend the Fly More Combo for both drones - the extra batteries are useful and having the multi-charger for both drones makes a big difference in how quickly you can get flying again. I recommend buying from B&H Photo - no sales tax outside of NY state.
This Week’s Challenge: #PRTV_sidelightSide lighting your subject this week was a bit more of a technical challenge but you guys came up with some neat shots. It's something that seems simple but gets a bit tricky knowing where shadows will fall, how light plays with your subject, and adding a lot of contrast / drama to a shot. Nice job and see you all next week for #PRTV_retro.Next Week’s Challenge: #PRTV_retroFind out more about upcoming challenges and past winners at photorec.tv/prtv.You can follow Photorec.TV on Instagram at @Photorec.tv and the team:
The RX10 line is Sony's point and shoot series with a HUGE zoom range. The New RX10mIV adds speed - faster AF, with a better spread and up to 24 frames per second bursts. There is no other camera this size that offers this sensor size and this focal range.I have been impressed by Sony's super zoom offerings - they use their excellent 1" sensor that is in the much loved and more pocketable RX100 series. And while I am usually not a fan of do it all lenses or cameras, the RX10 series offers some of the best quality in a super zoom P&S on the market. Below you will find a few more specs and slides from this morning's presentation.
20.1MP 1" Exmor RS1.0 STACKED CMOS Sensor with DRAMM
Hybrid AF system w/ 315 points on-sensor Phase Detect
4K video 24/30p, Full HD 1080p at 960 fps with phase detection for better AF
Built-In Wi-Fi with NFC
ISO 12800 and 14 fps Continuous Shooting
Shipping in October 2017 - Price $1699.99 PREORDER FROM B&H PHOTOA few additional highlights from the press releaseThe new RX10 IV features Sony’s latest 3.0-type 1.44M dot tiltable LCD screen with Touch Focus and Touch Pad function – another first for the Cyber-shot RX series – for quick and smooth focusing operation, and WhiteMagic™ technology, ensuring that LCD viewing is bright and clear in even the harshest outdoor lighting conditions.“My Menu” functionality has been added, allowing up to 30 frequently used menu items to be custom registered. Menus are color coded for easier recognition and navigation, and a new Movie Settings menu has been introduced to improve the overall video shooting experience.'The RX10M4 is dust and moisture resistantShipping in October 2017 - Price $1699.99 PREORDER FROM B&H PHOTO
This Week’s Challenge: #PRTV_shapeShape was the challenge and you guys had some great out of the box shots. There’s a lot of meaning and imagry behind a photo but sometimes it’s best to just focus on shape. It’s one of the most basic tools in your handbag to focus on the shapes of an object making for a great abstract photo, still life, or even a nature shot. Next Week’s Challenge: #PRTV_sidelightFind out more about upcoming challenges and past winners at photorec.tv/prtvYou can follow Photorec.TV on Instagram at @Photorec.tv and the team:
Toby’s Features:
Love the repetition here and high contrast the emphasizes the texture of the shapes